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Guard Duty
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Scanning * Shoot, move, communicate, _sense_ * Prioritize ** Immediate sweep ** Detailed: *** Ridge lines *** Around obstacles *** Avenues of approach *** Everything else ** Verbal range card w/battle buddy * Hold ground element vs Aggress element ** = Go somewhere and observe *** PX *** Food court *** Woods *** Company area *** Watch TV *** Count things *** First to spot X wearing Y doing Z *** "things out of the ordinary" *** A plant (such as Lumplump in disguise walking around) *** Let nothing be invisible. *** "Stalk" some pattern of life, such as where towed cars are going, or something... this is hard to explain. * Night Scanning ** Off-center ** Scan patterns (FM 7-8, p2-61+) ** BTW, don't forget luminous tape with writing on it * PAS-13 ** Infrared (IR) ** C: TM 11-5855-316-10 ** Range, clean air: ~1k, rainy: ~.5k ** Differences between B ("Big"), C ("Compact"), v[123] *** AN/PAS-13B = ... *** AN/PAS-13C(V)1 = LWTS (Light Weapon Thermal Sight) (M4/M136) *** AN/PAS-13C(V)2 = MWTS (Medium ...) (+M249/M240) *** AN/PAS-13C(V)3 = HWTS (Heavy ...) (+M2/Mk19/M107/M24) ** B: Battery installation: *** Not an ASIP battery, but close **** BA-5347/U (Lithium Manganese-Dioxide (LiMnO2)) *** Reversible *** for sure Tongue-test *** "Off" = Remove Battery; but will go on Standby if left alone. *** On: Push Eye-cup (then wait for cool-down ~1-2min (Focal Plane Array stabilization)) ** C: Battery installation: *** Cap = Lefty Loosie, Rightie Tightie *** Battery case key = Only goes in one way *** As-mounted, tits out on left *** Press, hold for >3 seconds (On or Off) *** Standby override (Eyecup) is more forgiving (Standby @ 120 sec.) *** Life: **** New batteries: 4.4 hrs **** 5 bars: 2.0 **** 4 bars: 1.2 **** 3 bars: 0.8 **** 2 bars: 0.5 **** 1 bar: 0.3 ** When using, keep rail grabber down (easy to feel, saves reorienting) ** Emergency = Override Standby (continuously on regardless of eyecup) *** B: Top, front controls: **** Left = Contrast **** Middle = Emergency **** Right = Brightness *** Front-most Ring = Wide/Narrow Field of View *** Second Ring = Focus **** Must refocus after NFOV/WFOV change *** C: **** Left, back = On/off, tap to White Hot/Black Hot **** Right, back = WFOV(x 1.36)/WFOV(x 2.71) **** Middle, top = Mode & Function Switch ***** Hold <2 Sec: Mode Switch (Operate->Emergency->Zero) ***** Hold >2 Sec: Function Switch ****** When in Operate Mode: (Contrast<->Display) ****** When in Zero Mode: (Reticle->Contrast->Display) *** 5-Way Switch (D-Pad): **** Normally ("Contrast" state (see graph below)): ***** - Up/Down = Brightness ***** - Left/Right = Contrast ***** - Push in = Auto reset & ROI selection: ****** - ROI determines zone for auto-level/gain ****** - Auto 1 = Center 1/9th box ****** - Auto 2 = Horizontal 1/3rd box ****** - Auto 3 = Whole screen **** Display State ***** - Up/Down = Display Brightness (save power) ***** - Left/Right = Reticle black/white **** Reticle State (only available in "Zero" mode) ***** - Up/Down/Left/Right = Reticle Adjust ***** - Push in = Reticle select *** Button above D-pad = FOV ("e-zoom") *** Front Ring = Focus ** Brightness/Contrast *** Constantly readjust *** Test on known human (or animal)) *** But, keep in mind differences in distance, weather, etc. ** Zoom button on right *** Different from NFOV, not as good (but good for mil counting). *** Press and Hold for Reticle Change *** Know Mils of different reticles, + Mil-relation formula ** Below Zoom = Reticle Adjust ** Left Side = Black/White Hot (Not very important, white hot preferred) ** Display *** B: **** "NOT COOL WHT HOT" **** WFOV/NFOV/Zoom **** NFOV preview box **** Reticle name (top-right) **** Reticle adjustments ***** - Left/Right; Up/Down (should probably be 0s) C: f p m s n _ _ l | | g l _._ g l | | | g l - - g l b g f = FOV & Reticle weapon; p = Polarity; m = Mode (Zero/Emer); s = State (Reticle/Display/Contrast); n = Function; l = manual Level; g = manual Gain; b = Battery Corner box = NFOV Area Indicator ** Usage *** At least once every ten minutes. We have plenty of batteries. **** Pitch unwrapped batteries (SFC Neal: Better safe than sorry) *** Any time you see something suspicious with IR NODs. The contrast can be key (Martinez's 5) *** Keep NODs down at the same time. ** Recon III is colored ** Don't forget the NOD 3x Magnifier *** C: Takes AA's * Range Estimation / Mil-Relation Formula ** = Make printouts: *** Formulas *** Optics specs *** 1000/x chart **** = Rotating Robot Presenter 5000 ** Start by doing 1000/x drills *** 10 >= x >= 1 *** 0 < x < 1 = "as hard as it gets" *** If you can't beat 'em, memorize 'em. ** Quiz for how people estimate range *** Shoot from the hip *** Jarhead ("take what you know, and multiply") *** Rangefinders *** Known-distance comparisons **** FBCB2, "T2 is 200m from me, so twice that is 400m" *** Shoot & Guess & Check ** Mention problem: how do you get better if you have no objective way of confirming your range? (Bad feedback loop) *** Intuition needs coaching **** + sometimes you have enough time to refine ** Motivation: *** Shooting: Graduated optic *** Moving: Time to a given point (Battle Drill 1/1A) ... *** Communication: Talking eyes onto a target *** Polar plot: Dis/Dir *** CFF corrections: OT Factor ** Range (Kilometers) = (width * 1000)/mils *** Use 1m for "width" and you'll make it easier. **** 1m is an E-type silhouette **** 1m is from your shoulder to your fingertip **** 1m is 39.37" *** Or, use 1.5m for standard half-stick: **** 5' = 1.5m **** King = 1.8m **** Mast = ~2m ** Rule of estimation: Keep it honest, and your ups can cancel your downs ** Discuss optic specs: *** Binos *** ACOG *** MGO *** You can find your own by comparing *** Offer printouts ** Finger method ** Drill w/whiteboard: *** E-types *** Full silhouette *** Door frame *** Cow ** Advanced (give permission to skip) *** Estimate width: Kilometers Range * mils = Meters Wide *** Estimate mils: Width / K-Range = Mils ** Hands-on portion: *** Put Meter-sticks everywhere, lead out for testing *** Use non-Meter objects for added difficulty *** Use PFC Daniels's (or Fister's) Rangefinder * Land Nav: ** Know maps, be able to "see" the terrain ** Make a cardboard model, to actual scale (need a good ruler w/ 1/32") ** Reverse Land Nav: *** Record the series of points (PAUL ?) with dead reckoning *** Plot those on a blank overlay *** See if it coincides with reality when put on an actual map.
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Last changed: 2013/09/09 09:57